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Saturday, March 25, 2023

Glam Cargo & Utility Pockets – WWD

The Y2K influence was still in full swing for the spring 2023 season, bringing with it a revival of the glam-utility trend that hadn’t been seen since early years past. Satin jumpsuits, sheer utility pants, and statement cargo pockets throughout turned this workwear-inspired trend into a true dress-up moment.

“We witnessed a sleek, elevated, elegant and sophisticated aesthetic that dominated the collections. There was a general feeling of positivity and optimism throughout the week,” Simon Longland, Harrods’s head of menswear and womenswear, said of the season.

Cargo pants specifically were featured in many shows, including LaQuan Smith, Isabel Marant and Givenchy. In the case of Coperni, who went viral after spraying a dress on Bella Hadid, cargo pants were paired with corsets and tight tank tops, heightening the Y2K aesthetic.

“This is the season of pants. You could find styles with pleats and generous width, streamlined and strapped lower at the waist, flared pants and cargo pants galore – they were ubiquitous in every city with lots of pockets,” said Rickie De Sole, fashion designer female and editorial director. Nordstrom, on the trends of the season.

Some of the season’s looks within the utility trend included delicate and ethereal interpretations of workwear classics. “We call it ‘romantic utility,’ spotlights of cargo pockets, reworked denim and multi-iteration jumpsuits, reborn with imagination and often feminine whimsy,” said April Hennig, senior vice president and chief merchandising officer at Moda Operandi.

Speaking of iconic utilitarian classics, at Loewe’s spring show, Jonathan Anderson reintroduced the original ‘Barbour’ waxed bomber jacket and other shearling bombers, either skintight or trapeze, that are likely to become must-haves for the season.

Cynthia Rowley came from other striking utilitarian looks, where full silk cargo skirts gave a ball gown feel, or a short metallic gold cargo jacket with matching knee-high boots from Bally, which is the maximum expression of glamor of this practical trend.

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