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Friday, March 24, 2023

Moschino returns to denim, Lupito Nyong’o joins De Beers – WWD

SOMETHING BLUE: Denim is definitely having a moment, and Moschino seems determined to push it further with its latest move.

The Aeffe-controlled brand said on Monday it will introduce M05CH1N0 Jeans, a range of women’s clothing and accessories inspired by the culture, history and heritage of denim.

This will be a reinterpretation of the 1986 Moschino Jeans line launched by the brand’s founder, Franco Moschino, and will respect the core elements of the fashion house, starting with its trademark tongue-in-cheek approach and trompe l’oeil visuals.

The line will make its debut with the pre-fall 2023 collection, which hits physical and online stores in May. While the brand hasn’t released any visual teasers aside from the line’s logo, it said in a statement that the collection will feature items in denim, chambray, cotton, jersey, velvet and leather, with silhouettes that pay homage to the classic designs of the brand. Moschino “with a twist jean.”

The line is also expected to feature stonewashed treatments, patchwork and frayed effects, and “clean stitching on non-traditional textiles.” Each M05CH1N0 Jeans item will come with arched and custom rivets as well.

The launch further signals the brand’s return to its roots and reinforces parent company Aeffe’s commitment to the label. As reported, in June, Moschino creative director Jeremy Scott presented his menswear collection in Milan during the city’s Men’s Fashion Week after years of showings in cities like Los Angeles, New York and Rome. The following month, the brand presented its new retail concept through a flagship store located in the Spiga 26 complex in Milan.

Last year, the Italian fashion group took full control of Moschino, paying €66.6m for the 30 percent stake in the brand it did not previously own. It also acquired the license to produce and distribute the Love Moschino womenswear collections internally for €3.6 million.

In addition to Moschino, the Aeffe group also includes the Alberta Ferretti, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini and Pollini brands. The company, which is listed on the STAR segment of the Milan Stock Exchange, posted sales of €176.5 million in the period ending June 30, an increase of 13.2% at current exchange rates, or 13 .9% at constant exchange rate, compared to the same period last year. Last year, Aeffe SpA generated consolidated revenue of €324.6 million, up 20.6% from €269.1 million in 2020. — Sandra Salibian

CRAFT ART: More than a year after revealing the Chanel Culture Fund’s partnership with Shanghai’s Power Station of Art, the French luxury brand has unveiled its inaugural exhibitions at the state museum of contemporary art.

As part of Chanel Culture Fund’s “Art of Craft” series, the two-year “Next Cultural Producer” program at PSA marked the company’s first partnership with a museum in Asia. Despite a five-month delay due to COVID-19-related disruptions, Chanel and PSA will hold two parallel shows in PSA’s second-floor showroom beginning November 5.

The two group exhibitions, arising from more than 40 open call submissions by film directors, university professors, architects, curators, art critics and sculptors in more than 14 provinces, will focus on showing the current state and revival of the craft China.

“Hill of the Madman”, curated by architects Lixing Feng and You Wu, will explore the idea of ​​craft as the ability to “know” and “see”, as stated by the German philosopher Martin Heidegger. The show will feature “a collection of subtle but highly intensified artworks” that could be taken as the work of “madness.”

The second exhibition, called “Back to the Future: Breaking the Time Barrier,” is curated by Jing Zuo, editor-in-chief of the Chinese art publication Bishan Jing Zuo, and Zuo’s colleague Yanzhi Wang. The program will look at how traditional crafts could be applied to “contemporary manufacturing and modern life”.

To further explore Chinese crafts in its various stages, an adjacent PSA-curated project called “House of Crafts” will open simultaneously on the museum’s third-floor terrace, showcasing research material and literature.

The second season of “Next Cultural Producer” is themed “Dynamic Architecture”, which will premiere in the summer of 2023.

Launched in March 2021, the Chanel Culture Fund is a three-year initiative to “support innovators in the arts in advancing new ideas and greater representation in culture and society.”

Aside from PSA, the fund has forged partnerships with the National Portrait Gallery in London, England; the Pompidou Center in Paris, France, and the Underground Museum in Los Angeles, California, to explore different themes, according to the company’s website. — Dennis Hu

The powerhouse of art


SHINING STAR: It’s a great New Year’s Eve for actress Lupita Nyong’o.

She is set to star in the “Black Panther” sequel, “Black Panther: Wakanda Forever,” which will be released in November, and has become De Beers’ first global ambassador.

The Academy Award winner is featured in the brand’s “Where It Begins” campaign, shot by Lachlan Bailey, which launches globally on November 3.

“This campaign brings to life the transformative power I feel when I wear De Beers diamond creations and the pride in knowing where they come from and the good they do. Even more importantly, my association with De Beers allows me to extend my advocacy for women and girls around the world,” Nyong’o said in a statement.

The brand has set a goal of engaging 10,000 girls in STEM; supporting 10,000 women entrepreneurs and investing at least $10 million across southern Africa by 2030.

“Lupita, who embodies responsible modern luxury, is an inspiration to all of us,” said Marc Jacheet, CEO of De Beers Brands.

“This campaign represents a series of firsts for the De Beers brand,” he added.

“This is the first time we have partnered with a global ambassador, the first time we have represented the full breadth and scope of the brand, from diamond discovery to finished jewelry, and the first time we have showcased a rough diamond in a campaign. It is a powerful new approach for De Beers that represents source, discovery, potential and authenticity.”

Jacheet began his new role on February 1, replacing De Beers veteran Stephen Lussier. He previously served as president of Tiffany & Co. Europe, Middle East and Africa, and prior to that he served as president of Tiffany’s Asia Pacific region. — Hikmat Mohammed

Lachlan Bailey Lupita Nyong'o De Beers

Lupita Nyong’o for De Beers.

Courtesy of De Beers

GENERATION GEMS: Jeweler Nina Runsdorf moves into London’s cult boutique Alex Eagle Studio.

On Tuesday, a limited run of special Runsdorf earring designs will hit Alex Eagle boxes, all facilitated by jewelry consultant The Stax. The collection was conceived as a family heirloom project: Runsdorf designed the tacks on a scale appropriate for both children and adults to allow for intergenerational sharing.

The five-piece earring collection includes aquamarines, peridots, moonstones, pearls and rubies, each cut to feature a diamond set in the middle. All stones represent the birthstones of Runsdorf, Eagle and The Stax founder Victoria Lampley’s children.

“The partnership began with Victoria’s wonderful idea to connect us with Alex, who brought an immense amount of passion and creativity to the project. We came up with the idea to celebrate the relationship between mother and daughter with the use of birthstones, designed in a way that reflects our love of effortless luxury,” said Runsdorf.

“I am delighted to have connected the aesthetic worlds of my dear friend Alex Eagle and one of my favorite jewelry designers, Nina Runsdorf. Each earring in the collection features a different precious birthstone owned and named after our daughters, and they are the perfect size to wear from infancy onwards. Needless to say, seeing the manifestation of this partnership has brought me so much joy and pride, and I can’t wait to see what’s to come,” said Lampley.

The designs were developed and manufactured in New York City, where Runsdorf is based. Prices range from $850 to $1,200. — Misty White Sidell

Nina Runsdorf for Alex Eagle.

Nina Runsdorf for Alex Eagle.

Steven DeVilbiss

ROSIE POPUP: Rosie Huntington-Whiteley’s beauty brand, Rose Inc., is on a great trajectory.

The model, actress and businesswoman teamed up with UK beauty retailer Space NK for a special week-long pop-up in London’s Covent Garden to launch her new eye collection.

“It was about creating an eyeshadow that was very, very easy to wear. I’m not very good at creating eyeshadow on myself. I always leave it to the experts,” Huntington-Whiteley told WWD, adding that she prefers a natural faded look.

The duo eyeshadow comes in four different palettes now available online. At the pop-up store, customers can customize their products with illustrator Nina Fuga along with three beauty masterclasses hosted by Nikki Wolff, Jason Hoffman and Katie Jane Hughes.

Huntington-Whiteley launched its beauty brand in 2021, an extension of its beauty content and commerce platform that began in 2018.

The beauty brand’s focus has been clean and sustainably sourced products with the help of Rose Inc. CEO Caroline Hadfield.

The main ingredient in Satin and Shimmer Duet eyeshadow; Radiant Reveal Illuminating Serum; Brow Renew Enriched Styling Gel; Lip Sculpt Enriched Amplifying Color and Softlight Luminous Hydrating Concealer are squalane, a plant-derived moisturizing agent.

Huntington-Whiteley celebrated the morning’s opening with the British retailer in a black dress by Prada, and for the evening soiree, she wore a cream knit dress by New York brand Khaite.

“I have an exciting project launching next year in the accessories space,” hinted Huntington-Whiteley, who has previously partnered with Marks & Spencer and Gia Couture on capsule collections. — HM

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley Pink Inc.

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley for Rose Inc.

Courtesy of Rose Inc.

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