“The collection started when I was doing some spring cleaning and came across an old box of books. I was checking out three books by my favorite artists, Lee Krasner, Frida Kahlo, and Judi Regal; I was thinking about the commonalities between them, how they were overshadowed by their male counterparts. Feeling this way through creativity, he was inspired by imagining them in their studios painting. There’s a sense of dripping psychedelic paint,” New York-based designer Jonathan Cohen said of his spring collection’s standout knit dress and a shrunken cardigan with warped rainbow stripes. He continued the idea with saturated shimmers and signature floral prints with blurred or dripping painterly effects in timeless feminine styles (such as a standout bustier ensemble and reinforced cotton taffeta ball gown).
Since launching his label in 2011, Cohen has been committed to sustainable brand messages through innovative techniques, evident through the spring floral decorations (derived from scraps of fabric) on his beloved cocktail dresses, button-down shirts reworked stripes and embroidered leather debutante looks.
“Something we’re really excited about this season is that we’re working with the biotech company Evolved By Nature – they figured out how to do a silk finish on the leather so there are no chemicals involved in treating the leather,” he said of Leather Trench from spring, dresses, shirts and skirts.
Also, since opening his two-level Upper East Side boutique in May (originally intended as a pop-up that has since expanded), the designer and Sarah Leff, co-founder and CEO, have taken their apprenticeships based on on store customers. floor to modify existing silhouettes, offer custom designs and introduce new ideas.
“It feels like we’re taking control of our business,” he said. For example, spring’s “sexiest” yellow scoop-neck, bodice-hugging dress, which Cohen noted “didn’t take off.” [with buyers]until the customers loved it.”